6-14 Jan, Colombia days 18-26: On Friday 6th January we flew to Bogota for the start of a 2 week motorbike tour of Colombia, which Oana had previously arranged with a group of Romanians.
We arrived a day before the main group (who flew in from Bucharest) allowing us to get the feel of Bogota by ourselves. At 3000m elevation it has a permanent feel of a temperate climate (10-23degC) with rain most afternoons. Very pleasant after the heat on the Caribbean coast. Our hotel is in the heart of the upper-class area (the T zone) with all the fancy stores and restaurants you could expect to find in any European city. But as we walked several Kms south, towards the old town, it got somewhat shabbier.
The rest of the motorbike gang arrived evening of the 7th and on Sunday 8th we had a city tour of Bogota, conducted by a very colorful local guide. First taking us for a city view up the side of the nearby mountain, then to the main government center, and finally the old city. We visited the gold museum where we learned how the native Indians used gold so extensively that it was effectively valueless to them, until the Spanish arrived. Then an art collection by the Colombian artist, Botero. Famous for painting and sculpting over-sized people and animals. We joke that the trend here of women falsely (over) enlarging their buttocks seems to mimic Botero’s characters!
Overall quite an impressive city, sprawled across hilly terrain. Rich in the middle with poorer suburbs stretching up the mountain sides. There is obviously quite a big gap between rich and poor.
Monday 9th was our first day on the road. Our bikes were all BMWs. Like most, our bike was a powerful GS1250, but there was also a couple of GS750s. All were less than 6 months old. Basically, like new. On the bikes were 5 couples (us included) and 4 single guys.
The group was led by Miguel, the local BMW representative, and followed at the rear by Cristi, the BMW MotoHub manager from Bucharest, whom we booked the tour with.
The Andes mountain range runs the full length of South America along its western side. When the Andes enter Colombia, they split into three mountain chains, east, central, and west. Bogota is on the eastern chain.
This first day we drove down into the valley between east and central, then up a high mountain pass across the central chain to arrive at our hotel in Almeria. In the afternoon it rained hard, producing our first mishap. One rider lost control, fell off and the bike slide on its side into the verge. Driver shaken but not hurt.
Tuesday 10th was a very long day filled with drama. In the morning we went off-road in the coffee region and had our first taste of stunning Colombian scenery. We visited a coffee plantation in the morning where we picked coffee beans and were then shown the production process by a very funny guide. Then up to Valle del Cócora in the Acaime National Park, famous for its very tall thin wax palm trees. Then finally a looong drive up to our hotel at 4000m altitude, just east of Manizales.
And the day’s dramas? 2 mechanical failures: 1 chain fell off and another bike wouldn’t start because the key got wet. 2 dropped bikes in the space of 30 seconds as a Jeep tried to squeeze passed us on a narrow muddy track. 2 falls (off bike). 1 on a steep incline on a dirt road and another rather nasty one on a downward slippery road, with riders and bike cascading along the asphalt. All a bit dramatic and rather frightening. But no injuries other than pride and a few ripped clothes. But it did shake us all up, especially the couples riding in the group.
Then near Manizales, a roadside bank collapsed, shedding mud, plants, and trees right across the road in front of us. Half the group got through before and our half not. The Cristi drove through the very slippery red-clay mud (sideways!) then walked back and took our bikes through one by one. If I had ridden through, for certain I would have dropped the bike, because we could barely even walk through the mud without falling over! Then in the late afternoon another larger landslide stopped all the traffic and we had to wait while a JCB dug it out to make the road passable again.
Now very delayed we ended up driving the last 2 hours in the dark right up to 4000m altitude on a very twisty road, the last 20km of which was a very rough dirt track. Then finally, there, in the middle of nowhere, was our Hotel Termales Del Ruiz. 4100m, at just 4deg latitude north of equator and just 4 degC. A tad chilly when your gloves and feet are soaking wet!
The hotel was a ski resort in the 1950s. But now the snow line is much higher. These days the attraction is its natural hot thermal pool emanating from the volcanic mountain interior. We spent what was left of the evening in shear bliss, thawing ourselves in the 40-45degC water, sipping warm alcoholic drinks and discussing the multiple day’s events. Certainly, a day to remember.
Wednesday 11th we drive to Medellin, Colombia’s 2nd biggest city and known as the home of the infamous criminal, Pablo Escobar.
We start the day by discovering the magical scenery our hotel is in. Totally on its own in the mountains with dramatic views down to Manizales in the valley below and surrounded by steaming pools and streams of hot water. Above the hotel is a lookout where hummingbirds gather to feed. It’s mesmerizing watching them hover as they feed.
Breakfast at the hotel was the scene of the next drama. One group member was verbally very upset at the ride yesterday. Too many dramas, frightening driving in the dark on bad roads and generally not what she’d signed up for. Oana tried to comfort her, but was just pushed away 🙁
A short ride from the hotel we stop to take in the breathtaking view of Nevada del Ruiz, 4km to our south. Its upper peak covered in snow and an emanating white plume of gaseous steam showing that it is indeed an active volcano.
On the ride back down to Manizales we are again halted by a land slide. A major one this time. We pass 4km of stand-still traffic to arrive to the front of the queue (in true Romanian style!). There we find a 3m wall of soil across the road and a tiny JCB furiously digging away. An hour later a larger digger arrives, and thing move quicker. Finally, they break through, and we are on our way again – our gang being the first ones to go through.
Once through Manizales we took a wonderful twisty small country road north. Challenging cornering and overtaking conditions. I loved it! I kept up with the fast front guys for a while but eventually had to let them pass me. I was driving to my limit. Thrilling but could not keep up that pace all day. Plus, we only get to see the road when we drive like that. Not even a split second to see the wonderful views. And at our coffee stop we have the next tantrum. Several of the couples are strongly complaining about the wild pace. The result is that we split into 2 groups: one fast, one slow. After my “fun” in the morning, we chose the more sedately group!
At Felisa, we go over the very fast flowing Rio Cauca then follow its west side, northwards. Clearly this energetic river is challenging the road. Every few km the road has collapsed into the river requiring major re-construction projects. There are multiple one-way-only sections with traffic backed-up for several km. Again, in true Romanian style (and in line with Colombian motorbike practices) we go passed all the stationary traffic and through the Stop/Go signs no matter what they indicate! Often squeezing passed oncoming trucks with narrow passing.
We arrive to Medellin again in the dark. Like Bogota, our hotel is in the lively area, and we have a very pleasant evening by ourselves.
Thursday 12th we have a day off the bike for a guided tour of the city. The roof top terrace where breakfast is served gives us our first view. Tower blocks on steep hillsides with misty clouds and lots of greenery at ground level. All apparently nicely developed.
The tour guide first takes us to the downtown which is frankly very grubby with notable prostitutes everywhere. But we do enjoy sampling some of the street food. Then we head to Comuna 13, which was a notoriously dangerous ghetto area that had big influence from the drug cartels. 20 years ago they focused on changing that and now it’s a lively and colourful tourist attraction. Interesting to see, but we certainly would not want to live there!
Friday 13th we are on the bikes again, heading north in the general direction of the Caribbean coastline. In the morning we pass through “milking cattle country” in the last part of the Andes foothills. Then in the afternoon it’s down onto the hot but stunningly beautiful savannah-type plain to Montería where our hotel is. Not much in the town here, but the hotel has a very nice rooftop pool and dining area and finally we get more of a team evening as we all dine there together.
Saturday 14th we arrive to the Caribbean coast at Covenas. It’s very hot (33degC) and sticky now. Bearable while we are on the move, but we melt in our riding gear whenever stationary.
The coast and beaches are the usual Colombian Caribbean scene. Okay-ish but nothing spectacular. We sit and have refreshments in a beach cabana in the shade and only one of us goes for a swim.
The last section of road into Cartagena was long and hot, and as usual we enter the city at rush hour with some challenging close-quarter driving as we try to keep the group together in chaotic traffic.
In the evening we visit Cloudy Bay to check everything is good, then go out for a meal with the gang in the citadel town. All very lively on a Saturday night. After the other disperse back to the hotel, Oana and I discover the amazing hotel Santa Clara, set in a colonial building with magical gardens in the central courtyard. We end our evening in their cocktail bar, dancing to Cuban live music. Wonderful.
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