Thursday 14 February, St.Maarten day 17: A sailing day … yeah!
As predicted, a bad nights sleep. Cloudy Bay was rolling all over the place last night in the cross swell that is getting into Simpson Bay. I swap beds to the forward cabin then back again, but neither better than the other. Finally I get into Oana’s diagonal position across the aft cabin bed and finally I get a bit of sleep. I vow tomorrow night I won’t be anchored here!
The alarm goes at 6am. Lots to do before I get the crew a 8:30. Blog to write, breakfast, getting boat ready to sail and a trip ashore to buy things for lunch. All goes according to plan and I get Alex from a nearby dock then Rob from Ineffable. After a quick briefing and removing the outboard from the dinghy, we lift the anchor and unfurl the sails. Rob and Alex are both really good and willing hands, especially considering it’s their first time on board Cloudy. But I suddenly realize just how slick Oana and I have become as we do simple tasks, without even the need for words. Lifting the anchor was OK but not quick and lots of instructions back and forth. Getting the outboard off the dinghy: Oana lifts it by herself flawlessly where as it took both Rob and Alex to lift it this morning. And unfurling the sails, although they follow instructions, it’s not the the precise second and we get the main sail jammed. It gets free easily, but Oana can unfurl and furl the sail almost with her eyes closed just listening to the tone of the hydraulic motor. Hmmm I miss my Bunny on board.
The wind is a nice 17-25 knots and our first move is to fast reach out of the bay passing the hall of fame. Namely: the Super Yacht Eclipse owned by Abramovich (which apparently has a crew of 72) and his “toys” yacht anchored next to it, with a 72ft sloop on deck one side and a 70ft Sunseeker on the other side. Then passed Steve Jobs yacht, very slick. And finally passed the largest private “sailing” yacht simply called “A”. From a distance this is a truely ugly looking thing with 3 unstayed masts. But close up, the design is intriguing. Definitely a step away from the norm. Take a look at the photo.
Then all sails are pulled in and we are hard on the wind heading due south towards St. Eustatius, with main and genoa reefed and Rob on the helm. The aim is to head upwind for a few miles then back track in the opposite direction on a broad reach in big waves, to test the vang at maximum stress.
Upwind is a very wet ride, waves coming over the foredeck and even 1 or 2 reaching the mast. Nothing like a good hard upwind sail in big seas to get the adrenalin going. After an hour, and probably 8 miles away from St. Martin we tack around and head back. The wind is now 20-24 knots true and the waves are about 3m. We have full main and genoa and speeds are hitting 10kts occasionally. Feels slow after Ineffable, but still a thrill. The ride feels so smooth downwind. Almost too smooth. I’m not sure this is really stressing the vang enough. I guess I should be happy that it shows no sign of leaks … yet.
Rather than going back to the rolly Simpson Bay on the Dutch side, we round the southern tip of St. Maarten then head north up to Marigot Bay on the French side. Marigot Bay is a beautiful turquoise water and best of all the water is flat, no swell, no rocking.
Once on anchor in 3m of water, I get Rob and Alex to help me put the bimini back on. Third time lucky, it goes on OK and the shade in the cockpit is very welcome. I then produce a snacky lunch of cold cuts, French bread and wine which seems to go down well.
By mid afternoon I am ferrying them all the way back to Simpson Bay via the Lagoon and 3 bridges. Not a very fast ride with 3 big guys in the dinghy, and a wet one too in the gusty wind.
After a happy hour at Lagoonies I dinghy back the 2 miles to Cloudy Bay in the dark. But once in Marigot Bay I struggle to find Cloudy Bay. Not helped by no anchor light on … and too many rum-punches. And for a horrible moment I think she may have dragged anchor and drifted seaward. But finally I find her dark shape in the dull moonlight. Mental note to self: best stop this habit of happy hour if you need to drive the dinghy a long distance to get back home!
On Cloudy Bay I enjoy a quiet evening relaxing and NOT doing any jobs other than tidying ropes and lines.
It was great to sail today, again. It’s been over 2 weeks of all-work-no-play. And nice to show Rob and Alex how a steady old 30 tonner performs compared to a racy 62ft trimaran!
Sleep should come easy tonight.