Monday-Thursday 23-27 Jan, Mexico, days 4- 7, Isla Mujeres: More aft locker activity, tasting the night life, and getting our TIP.
It takes 2 days to finally get the authorities to answer their phone in Cancun where we need to book an appointment to apply for our TIP (Temporary Import Permit). Thankfully Oana is fluent in Spanish and the “TIP-lady” clearly tells her what we need to bring, making extra emphasis on the yacht engine. TIP-lady needs both photos and proof that the engine belongs to us. That’s a bit like asking to prove the heating system in your house belongs to you! She is also very clear, when Oana asks twice, that there is no need for any documentation for the dinghy or outboard engine. But from other people’s experience, we already know better!
We spend the whole morning before appointment-day digging out and copying all possible documents that prove ownership of the boat, its engine, the outboard and the dinghy. In addition to all the reams of other documents that the check-in procedure produced and stamped. Then using scissors, we trim our A4-sized papers down to the USA “legal” size, because others have reported she would not accept documents on paper that will not fit physically into her files! Several other cruisers have needed to come all the way back to Isla Mujeres on the ferry to collect more documents then return again with a new appointment. We even heard one boat that was sent packing twice before acceptance of their documents, so we are determined to get it right first time.
On the day of appointment, Thursday, we get the 9am fast ferry across to Cancun. It leaves dead on time, and it is indeed fast. We almost feel the acceleration as it leaves port, and it is quickly up to 20+kts. It’s only an 18-minute crossing from Isla Mujeres to Cancun, and we are treated to very nice live music as we sit on the top deck with the wind in our hair. It’s a bit like a marine version of an open-top sight-seeing bus but with better entertainment.
The office is a 10-minute walk from the ferry terminal, and we arrive 10 minutes before the appointment. She only wants to see just one of us, so Captain Glen duly nominates Oana! Probably a good idea because I have already determined that I won’t have patience for this TIP-lady. Oana is very polite, handing over the documents one by one as requested of her.
It is just starting to look like we have been uniquely successful when TIP-lady finds a weak spot. The document that proves ownership of the dinghy is not a good copy. This is the dinghy that she told Oana on the phone there was no need to have paperwork for! To us, the copy is clearly readable, but TIP-lady is adamantly not accepting it. Like many before us, we get packed off to the nearby hotel, to re-copy the document. We suspect she has a deal with the guy in the hotel who makes the copies. Clearly, he is very used to it. Despite the new copy looking just like the previous one, it gladly passes the test and is accepted by her.
Then it’s lots of questions about the boat: how many VHFs, GPSs, TVs, DVDs, Radio-CD players, washing machine, dishwasher, cooker …. you name it she asked it, even “how many boxes of tools do you have?”!
Again, we think we are done when she tries to catch us with one last tripwire. She wants to know our immigration status, which of course she knows because we have already checked in with immigration. And anyway, this process is only about the boat, not us. But regardless, she wants to see our visas. Luckily, by chance, our visas slips are inside our passports which Oana has brought with us. Finally, the tormenting is over and she, I believe reluctantly, hands over our temporary import permit. Bit funny really – temporary – because it is valid for 10 years!
Other than dramas with the TIP, we also had a very good night out in town in these last few days. We had gone in mid-afternoon with the sole aim of copying documents ready for the TIP process. This led to us to sitting for refreshing drinks and snacks at The Steak House, which led to happy hour drinks in a garden bar with live music where we had yet more drinks in the rain, which then led to us spending the rest of the evening in Mariscos de Humo bar where we were drawn in by the most amazing Mexican singer, all dressed traditionally and singing local music. And boy, could she ever sing. We sat (well I did, Oana was dancing) entranced by her voice while we sipped the biggest Margaritas we have ever had, in huge glasses. We got back to the boat by midnight not in the best of states … hic! It was one of those impromptu great evenings, that sometimes just “happen” when you least expect it.
On the boat, I had quite the activity in the aft locker. Having fixed a leak in the port side 2 days before, I decided to clear out the starboard side to address a couple of projects. I had a new outlet and mixer tap for the swim-platform shower to install (old ones were corroded) and I wanted to remove the dimmer and remote-control circuitry for the aft deck light. It works just fine, but I’ve always been concerned that it got too hot. It has a heat-sink, but it doesn’t seem too effective at dissipating the heat. I decided to just cut it out and revert back to a simple on/off circuit.
And of course, while taking everything out the locker, it had to have a good clean. And during that cleaning I discovered similar leaking from the deck fittings that we’ve seen on the port side. So all those had to be re-bedded, using butyl this time. Enough of sikaflex, which has only lasted 5 years. One day, maybe one day, I’ll get this damned boat completely watertight!
Lastly, a bit of R&R snorkeling nearby. 500m from us we noticed boats taking tourists snorkeling. So I headed over there in the dinghy, threw the anchor, and got in. I was surprised to find all the tourists were only being allowed to snorkel over rather boring sea-grass. Whereas right up against the rocks with a small light house on top there was coral and lots of sea life. But also the waves were breaking on the rocks so I guess the tour-guides were just protecting their clients. One reason I could never do that kind of holiday. Too restrictive.
From there I took the dinghy to see the northern beaches on the island. While the white sand beach with turquoise water looked nice, the shallows near the beach was swarming with tourist boats anchored and people swimming off the back of them. There must have been 60 at least, with barely a gap between them. Mayhem! Again, not the tourist scene that attracts us at all. We have been spoiled with our independence.
These were the key events of the last few days. Tomorrow we have booked a scuba dive on the nearby reef, then the next day our niece, Emma, arrives from UK. Really looking forward to having her on board again. Last time was Greece in 2017.