Trek up to “The Source”

Wednesday 16 January, Nevis day 8: Trekking up to the island’s water supply source on a dangerously slippery jungle track.

The dark sky and rainy weather continued throughout the night and we wake up to find the same. We were planning for another hike today, and now that the conditions are far from optimum, we contemplate whether to cover ourselves in mud again or not. Well, we like a bit of adventure, so we stick with the plan!

Just as we board the dinghy, a low cloud comes over the island towards us, bringing yet more rain. So we return to the dry cockpit waiting for it to pass, not wanting to get soaked before we even made it to the car. After 30 minutes, with it still drizzling, we make a run for it with the dinghy.

The drive to the Golden Rock Hotel, where the trail head starts, takes only 15 minutes. When asking reception for one of their trail maps she tries hard to put us off going: you know it’s rained a lot, right? You have water? You have the right footwear? Make sure you take a walking stick. After she insists a fair bit, we take 2 walking sticks to keep her happy, but Glen leaves his in the car!
The map points out Ocean View landmark as the end of the easier part of the trail. From there to the source is gets difficult and dangerous. So of course we are determined to go all the way to the source!

We set out up the trail which at first is gentle uphill walking on a very well established trail. It is a rather rocky trail, we need to be careful at every step not to twist our ankles. It is also marked by various generations of water pipe leading up to the source of water.
After an hour the path narrows and starts winding its way around steep gullies in dense rain forest. It’s muddy and extremely slippery. One bad slip and off you go down into the deep gully! And unlike the volcano summit trail, there are no ropes or anything to give us security from falling. Just very narrow path, in some places 20cm max, so extreme caution was needed.

Occasionally there are sections of concrete steps. But they themselves are covered in moss and lethally slippery. The further we get the less obvious where the trail goes next, and occasionally we feel like we are off trail. But all the time there is nearby evidence of water pipes. Just how on earth did they get these caste iron pipes up here? Dragged by donkey maybe?

Close to the top we find a concrete culvert with the water running down it. And then finally the end of the hike, marked by a 120ft high, very corroded, ladder going up a waterfall. At least 1/3 the rungs are missing and the rest look like they are about to break with any weigh applied. And the ladder itself goes up the water fall like a meandering snake. So guess who just has to climb it? You got it… Glen. He does take it carefully and at the top declares there is absolutely nothing to see. I’m quite glad when he is back down again. I really was not up for seeing a rusted ladder rung sticking through his leg!

Going down is even trickier than ascending, as slippery as a slide. I am very glad of my stick, but also find the easiest way in many parts is to simple slip down on my bum. Needless to say, I finish with a pretty muddy backside, which amuses Glen no end!
The other thing on this trail was the undergrowth. The jungle scenery was amazing, but all those ferns and branches we had to push through left my legs very scratched and extremely itchy. Let’s hope a hot spa will soothe them.

Just over 4 hours we are back at the car in Golden Rock car park. We managed to find a stream to clean ourselves at about 1/2Km from the end. So we are actually reasonably presentable once back at the car.

After a stop in a bakery, where we gorge ourselves on all manner of interestingly filled patties (we were rather hungry), we arrive again to the hot spring baths. Soon we are in heaven in the very hot water relaxing our weary legs once more. We are alone at first, but then 2 ladies join us … the same 2 ladies that joined us 3 days ago!! This IS a small island indeed. And we continue our chatting where we left off before. The water seems a degree or 2 cooler today, so we end up staying there for a full 1 hour, rotating in and out of the hot water.
Once thoroughly relaxed we force ourselves out just before sunset, when the mosquitoes are starting to home in on us.

Following that it’s a quick cocktail in Turtle Time bar then back to Cloudy Bay. It was quick because there was a group of local guys there taking shots and getting more and more rowdy. And at the same time the local music was getting louder and louder too. Not how we envisioned our relaxing sunset drink to be!

Back on Cloudy Bay we are totally beat. It’s only early evening and all we can think of is heading to bed!