Canouan, day 1 – Glossy Bay

by Oana

Wednesday 7-March: Woke up early (7am) to try to catch the weather net on the SSB radio. It seems wind is increasing in the coming days, so we either need to stay safe where we are now, or get going before the big winds arrive. We chose to get going.

We depart Mayreau Island with dull skies and a few drops of rain, but as the day progressed it brightened up significantly even though the 20knt winds stayed. We decided on a very conservative sail plan, cutter and heavily reefed main. After weaving our way through the Cays reefs we are hard on the wind towards Canouan Island, the next island northwards. Good job we chose conservative sails, because we are very comfortable yet still doing a steady 6-7 knots.

As we arrive to Canouan Island, we first check out the bay next to the airport and the new marina before proceeding to the main Charlestown Bay. The beach is beautiful golden sand and crystal blue water, very inviting to stay. But the area around the new marina is clearly being heavily developed. In fact the hill next to it is covered in heavy machinery in what looks like the total destruction of the natural hillside, as they terrace it for apartment development.

We had already heard that major foreign developers have taken huge pieces of land on Canouan Island, developed exclusive resorts and now the locals no longer have access to much of their island. Added to that, these hotel developments staff themselves with people from the main island of St.Vincent, not with local people. So it transpires that the locals are rather desperate and it’s open season on any yacht that doesn’t lock itself properly. So we have to be careful here.

As we come into a very gusty Charlestown Bay, the large swell from the north has still not died down, and it is rolling heavily into this bay. We anchor for a while but it’s just too uncomfortable, plus there is no where to land the dinghy to get ashore. The waves are just too big. So we saunter back to South Glossy Bay, which we had previously checked-out. Although still rolly, it is much more comfortable anchorage than Charlestown Bay. With this strong Easterly wind, and big northerly swell, there are very few places to have a peaceful anchorage, it seems.

Once anchored, we take the dinghy into the marina. It all looks very new, but totally empty excepting one super yacht and a small sailing boat. The bar and restaurant are no more crowded, but what a pleasant surprise at just how nice and modern it is with lovely laid gardens complete with a stunning view to Cloudy Bay, alone in the blue bay. And even the prices, although shown only in US$ not in local currency, are reasonable. Oana is beside herself with happiness at the chance of us finding this civilization!

We have probably the nicest coffee since arriving in Caribbean and order lunch too, once we’ve had a stroll along the white sand beach. Infact we are so taken with the place, that we decide we will treat ourselves with a day in the marina tomorrow and go see the island from here, knowing that CB is safely tied up and secure, from wind, swell and also idle hands.

Back on CB Oana takes full advantage of the WiFi signal from the bar, that we can also pick up on CB via our WiFi booster. Meanwhile Glen potters with various boaty jobs. There is a hydraulic oil leak from the Reckmann vang that has unfortunately stained the deck. It needs sealing to stop any future dripping on the teak wood. Cling film seems to do the job! Then it will need some research on how to fix the leak. This hydraulic vang is not to be played with, it is capable of putting 6 tons of force onto the boom, so expert advise is needed before any attempt to dismantle it. One thing is clear about modern yachts – anything mechanical, electrical, chemical or hydraulic ….. will all surely go wrong, at some stage.

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