Saturday 23 Feb, Saba day 2: Hiking two trails and dinner at Brigadoon.
Plenty of sleep last night, snug under the duvet. And we wake up refreshed, ready for our active day ahead.
But first, cooked breakfast at the hotel (plenty of calories) to boost our energy levels. Eggs and bacon, Glen’s favorite when we travel. And while at it, we start chatting to a taxi driver who offers his services to give us a lift up the mountain where the trail head is. Well, we might just as well take his offer rather than getting tired walking up the windy roads before we even start the hike.
A very short taxi ride later, during which we get a glimpse at the very short runway at the airport below, we are at the beginning of the Sandy Cruz trail.
We chose this trail because it goes around the mountain and we get to see all sides of the island and the view over the neighboring islands. It is a very nice trail, well maintained and dry for once. It would be good to return from hiking with clean clothes for a change! It’s a very pleasant walk, mostly flat, with moderate climbs and descends. Not strenuous at all, rather relaxing and the bonus was that indeed we had clear view over the ocean and other islands: St. Eustatius, St. Bart’s and St. Maarten.
One of the viewing points was over the airport. It’s runway is very short at only 1200ft (350m) with a shear drop at each end, into the sea. Zero room for error on landing or take-off. And as we comment yet again that it would have been nice if we had flown in to experience landing on this tiny airport, an airplane is approaching and we do watch it land. Amazingly, it stops half way down the runway…I guess landing is less tricky than taking off on such a short runway.
We continue our walk through dense forest, various types of vegetation and surrounded by birds songs and small lizards. We even see two snakes, black. Are they bad luck, like black cat crossing your way? We must remember to ask the locals what type of snake that is. First snakes we have seen in the Caribbean.
Two hours later we reach the finish of the trail, right above The Bottom village and we head towards Queen’s Garden Hotel, in search for a mid-day coffee. The hotel is rather a boutique hotel, only 12 rooms in 3 villas of 4 rooms each. All with great view over the valley, the village below and onto the ocean.
The bartender surprises us with his own version of a latte, topped up with cinnamon. Not sure it would make the list of our favorites, but it was interesting enough. And he also serves us a long story about the shows he puts on at the bar, how he got to Saba, where he worked before, how they drive back home… he can certainly talk for Trinidad! Our ears need a break now!
Refreshed and rested, we feel ready to tackle another hike. Our map shows another trail starting near the hotel and continues around the mountain back to Windwardside, Bottom Mountan Trail. Perfect!
So we head on it, this time on the sunny side. We soon get hot and sweaty, not only because of the direct sun but because this is a proper hike, climbing on rocks. Exactly what we needed to get our blood going again.
The nearly vertical ascent doesn’t last long and we soon get back into more leveled grounds. And few junctions where several trail meet, one of which was not properly marked. After a small detour we realize we are on the wrong trail and get back to the faulty signed junction, taking the opposite direction this time.
The trail is up and down, through dense forest, then through plain fields, and passing a goat farm where we have a giggle talking to the goats. Glen claims to be able to “speak goat” quite well. And indeed the goats all respond to him with lots of Meeeehs!
Above the farm we meet a white local who clearly enjoys sitting in the shade outside his little house and chatting to the hikers. We listen to his stories which just roll out of him one after another. It’s clear his family has been on Saba for several generations. He says he was the first ever white guy who married a black lady “it was a bit difficult at first” he says. His wife is from a family of 16 children, 8 boys, 8 girls. And it seems he now has multiple grandchildren, many still on the island. He was quite a character and we could have listened to him longer.
But after 10-15 minutes passed another 2 hikes arrive, so they took over the listening from us and we bid him farewell.
The last section of this trail consists of lots of steps, which are part of the Mt.Scenery Stairway that goes all the way up to the mountain top. It would be interesting to climb these too, but two trails in one day is enough for some old retirees like us!
Soon we arrive back in Windwardside where we amble through the village taking in the tiny streets and houses. It really feels like a town in miniature. Very quaint. We also come across the Brigadoon restaurant which has been recommended to us as the best on Saba, so we book a table for the evening.
Back at the hotel we eat a snack lunch and make use of the WiFi which we have not had for a while, to check up on banking and other admin tasks. And before we know it, it’s time to head off to the restaurant back up in the village.
Good job we booked because it is full. It’s one of those expensive restaurants where you go for the experience of the food, not for the generous portions. So throughout the meal, which was delicious, we joke about going for a pizza afterwards to get properly filled up!
In one corner of the restaurant we see two of our fellow divers having dinner with the dive guide we had yesterday. On our way out we try to persuade her that we MUST dive on The Pinnacles tomorrow. This dive is what we came to Saba for and we will be very disappointed if we don’t actually get to dive it tomorrow, our last day.
Same as yesterday the evening is chilly, with the damp cool wind blowing through the elevated village. So as soon as we are back in the room we snug under the duvet for warmth, where we stay till sleep time!
