Arriving Bequia

by Oana

Monday 12-March: A bit of a long night for Glen. There was generally a gentle 10 knots of wind, but then every 5 minutes or so a massive 30 knot (60 Km/hr) gust comes down the valley hitting the anchorage, pulling the anchor chain taught and making Cloudy Bay yaw heavily off to one side or another.

But, despite the strong wind, we decide to head off to Bequia Island, 25 miles to the north, because the forecast is no better for the coming few days. So after making sure everything below decks that can move is tied down, we set off with a conservative sail-plan: cutter and heavily reefed main. At first it is OK in the wind-shadow of Canouan Island, but as we get into the 20 mile lane between the islands the wind and waves come in strongly from the east.

We are making very good speed, just off the wind, but this means that Cloudy Bay is pushing hard into, and through the waves. One wave comes careering over the deck, up the windscreen, over the spray hood and into the aft side of the cockpit. Oooh, that was a big one! Oana is desperate trying to get such waves on GoPro, but each time she has the camera on, no waves break over the deck …. then she turns it off and the best waves ever show themselves!

At one point she is so engrossed in the mission that she does not notice that Glen has gone below to check the water maker. She looks up from her camera and can’t see him. At first she calls, Glen! …. then shouts frantically, thinking he has fallen off the boat. Glen eventually hears the scream above the noise of the water maker and comes rushing back on deck to meet a very relieved Oana! It’s a big shock for her and it takes a few minutes for her to recover. Other than that it is a wonderful speedy sail where again we are in awe of how CB’s 30 tons are ploughing through the waves at 8-9 knots.

As we approach the SW point of Bequia, there is a race happening. We have been steadily overtaken by a catamaran, and a ferry is also catching up. Glen is determined that we will be the first to round the point so he puts out more sail… and we happily round the corner first, ahead of both catamaran and ferry! For the next 5 miles it’s upwind into the gusty bay, but on flat water.

The anchorage is very busy and it takes us 2-3 attempts to find a place that has enough room and where the anchor will hold. Bequia looks very green with lovely houses dotted on the steep slopes around the bay. Definitely civilization here! Glen has always longed to visit this island, because his Contessa 32 yacht in Canada was named Bequia Breeze. By the way, Bequia is pronounced Bec-way.

Glen tidies the deck and gives the wheel and instruments a quick wash with fresh water while Oana prepares a snack. Then we head ashore. It looks really nice, lots of colorful restaurants all around the bay, fruit stalls and a good supermarket. Looks like we are going to enjoy this place. Not surprising that many Europeans have arrived then decided to settle here on this island. Such a contrast from Canouan which had the extreems of rich and poor next to each other on the same island.

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2 comments

Rob March 13, 2018 - 10:09 am

Beware of smiling boys on dinghy pontoon offering to look after your boat for you! We didn’t take up the offer and returned to find a hole in our inflatable floor.
Also, roadside fruit sellers are really nice, whereas in the fruit market, they get a little keen on you buying their produce
Find the turtle sanctuary ( perhaps a tad sad, but very cute, and the Swedish restaurant on the other side of the island.
(Alter Ego – HR53)

Oana March 21, 2018 - 4:03 am

Hi Rob, thanks for the info, very useful! We had a good time in Bequia, with no incidents.
Didn’t find the Swedish restaurant though :(, so we ended up having lunch at Sugar Reef Cafe.
Keep in touch! 🙂

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